Average Beta https://exartes.com/ 2026-09-14T09:00:00Z Six Weeks on the Same Gradehttps://exartes.com/2026/six-weeks-on-the-same-grade/2026-09-14T09:00:00ZSix weeks without a new send, and the diary showed why: I had been choosing problems that suited me and calling it training. The Pulley Tweak and the Long Way Backhttps://exartes.com/2026/the-pulley-tweak-and-the-long-way-back/2026-06-02T09:00:00ZA strained pulley on a move I had done before, twelve days off, and five weeks of gentle loading to get back to crimping. Hangboard Numbers, Honestlyhttps://exartes.com/2026/hangboard-numbers-honestly/2026-03-22T09:00:00ZEleven weeks of max hangs on a 20 mm edge, with the actual numbers, two mistakes, and what it did and did not change on the wall. Footwork Is Not Optionalhttps://exartes.com/2025/footwork-is-not-optional/2025-10-19T09:00:00ZSomeone pointed out that my feet make a noise. An hour of silent-feet drills and downclimbing fixed more than a month of pulling had. Two Sessions a Week Is Enoughhttps://exartes.com/2025/two-sessions-a-week-is-enough/2025-06-15T09:00:00ZCutting from four sessions a week to two meant no new grade on paper, but no injuries either and better climbing on both days. First Session After a Month Offhttps://exartes.com/2025/first-session-after-a-month-off/2025-02-02T09:00:00ZA month off with a chest infection cost soft skin and coordination, not strength. Two weeks of easy volume brought it back.