Average Beta

A training diary from an ordinary adult who climbs twice a week and plateaus often.

About this site

I started bouldering at an indoor wall in my late thirties, with no athletic background and a desk job. Two or three sessions a week, a hangboard screwed to the frame of the spare-room door, and a small whiteboard where I write down what I actually did rather than what I meant to do. The grades here are modest and will stay that way.

I keep the diary because climbing progress is slow and uneven and my memory of it is unreliable. Writing things down shows me that the plateau I am complaining about is six weeks old, not six months, and that the finger that hurts today hurt last autumn too. It is mostly here so I stop repeating my own mistakes.